Thailand
The Land of Smiles, A Memoir
In late spring of 2001, my husband and I found ourselves at one of our favorite spots in Greenwich Village – a cozy Thai restaurant. The aroma of spices mingled with the laughter of diners as we sat outside, nestled at a table in the corner of their garden. This particular evening was no ordinary occasion; it was a celebration of monumental proportions.
Just days before, my husband had received a letter that would change the course of our lives. After years of relentless pursuit, he was accepted into medical school. With no roadmap, it was a dream he dared to chase despite the odds, born from a radical shift in career aspirations. You see, my husband’s journey was anything but conventional.
When I met him, he was a hybrid hippy-punk-poet who didn’t own shoes and studied classic literature and philosophy. Just the kind of guy you would meet in college, right? He followed me to New York City, worked a stint at The Strand Bookstore and one evening announced to me that he wanted to become a doctor. He spent the next five years working for The Penguin Publishing Company. By day, he archived their vast collection, and by night, he immersed himself in a slew of night classes, acquiring the prerequisites necessary for his newfound ambition.
He left Penguin Book after a crazy merger and a severance in hand allowed for a three-month hiatus before the demands of medical school awaited. We saw it as a sign – a sign to seize the moment to travel. Sitting across from each other in that bustling restaurant, we basked in the freedom of endless possibilities. We shared our dreams of travel, knowing that wherever our adventures took us, being together would be a delight. As we savored the restaurant’s signature dish – a fragrant bowl of Tom Yum Soup, brimming with lemongrass, chili, and lime – I leaned in close and whispered, “What if we travel to Thailand?” “Yes, Thailand!” he replied. We wasted no time in making plans. Within weeks, we found ourselves stepping off a plane into the bustling chaos of Bangkok.
Bangkok, Thailand
Our first stop was the legendary Chatuchak Weekend Market, where rows upon rows of vendors beckoned with outrageous displays of fresh produce, fragrant spices, and sizzling street food. We dove headfirst into these culinary delights – sampling skewers of succulent grilled meat, crispy spring rolls bursting with flavor, and tropical fruits we’d never heard of: dragon fruit, mangosteen, durian. We opened the fruits, as precious gifts, discovering the unique colors, flavors, and textures within.
At sunrise, we would often find ourselves standing on a bridge overlooking the canals awaiting the arrival of the long-tail boats of Damnoen Saduak’s floating markets. These boats glided through the waterways laden with a bounty of produce and fish. As the boats passed by, we were captivated as the workers skillfully traded goods, tossing items from boat to boat with practiced precision. Their communication, a fascinating blend of signs and single-syllable calls, was a hybrid language of their own.
In the afternoons, while sipping on mango smoothies, we ventured into narrow alleyways adorned with open fires, where bustling families cooked over giant woks. Dinners were a laid-back affair, with fragrant bowls of steaming noodle soups enjoyed at makeshift picnic tables set up along the bustling streets.
As evening descended, we immersed ourselves in the vibrant atmosphere of the night markets, illuminated by neon lights and buzzing with activity. Here, we fearlessly sampled crispy fried insects, pushing the boundaries of our culinary comfort. And yes, my husband ate a scorpion.
With each new culinary experience, we discovered a different facet of Thai cuisine – its bold flavors, its innovative use of fresh ingredients, and its ability to surprise and delight at every turn. As our love for Thai food deepened, we also came to understand why Thailand is known as the Land of Smiles. The warm and welcoming people were winning our hearts and minds.
Koh Samui, Eastern Island, Thailand
With our bellies full and our spirits high, we boarded an overnight train bound for Koh Samui. We left the hustle and bustle of Bangkok behind and sank into the soothing rhythm of the train. The scenery gradually shifted from urban landscapes to verdant greenery and offered glimpses into the lives of those living along the train route. As night fell and the sleeping bunks were prepared, we surrendered to the gentle sway of the train.
Catching a morning ferry, the island welcomed us with palm-fringed beaches and promises of a different kind – one infused with the flavors of the sea and the laid-back charm of island life. We explored coconut groves, and mountainous rainforests, and climbed the Hin Ta & Hin Yai Rocks on the Lamai Beach. Stopping at beachside shacks serving up platters of succulent grilled fish, Pad Thai, and coconut-infused seafood soup.
We stumbled upon an ocean bungalow that was more than just a place to stay – it was a paradise. Day by day, we extended our stay, lost in a perpetual state of bliss and pure relaxation. Koh Samui held us captive and it was impossible to tear ourselves away from its charms. Inspired by Homer’s Odyssey, Rick affectionately called us the “Lotus Eaters.” Eventually, the next part of our journey beckoned but not without an unexpected turn
Muslim Fishing Village, Southern Thailand
As news of severe monsoons and violent mudslides gripped northern Thailand, our plans to journey north to Chiang Mai shifted. Opting for safer terrain, we ventured further south to a Muslim stilt fishing village near Malaysia. Boarding a public bus, we arrived at a quaint seaside town, our sense of direction somewhat adrift. Climbing onto a beautifully crafted traditional longboat. The two of us and the captain set off across the stunning Phang Nga Bay. We floated by incredible limestone karst towers – awe-inspiring rock formations emerging majestically from the water.
As we stepped onto the pier of Ko Panyi, a small Muslim stilt fishing village, we were greeted with friendly smiles. The warm hospitality instantly put us at ease. The village was established at the end of the 18th century by the nomadic Javanese. This unique community of wooden stilt houses perched above the water are connected by a maze of narrow walkways and bridges.
We spent the day, involved in the rhythms of daily life. As we entered the market in the village, I felt immediately underdressed because my red hair was down, waist-long, and completely exposed. I bought a beautiful hand-embroidered head wrap, in cream and yellow tones, which the creator helped me secure in the proper fashion. I received many compliments from the women of the village that afternoon and I felt respectful of their customs and traditions.
It was without question that the culture of the village was deeply rooted in the traditions of Islam, with the call to prayer echoing through the air five times a day. We visited their beautiful mosques, prayer rugs unrolled, and there were rooms I could not enter – exclusively for the men to worship. That was a first for me.
Beyond the religious practices that shaped daily life, the village was also a place of warmth and hospitality. We shared a meal prepared with love and care by our host family – fragrant curries infused with local spices, grilled fish fresh from the sea, and fluffy rice cakes served with sweet coconut sauce.
Our companions for dinner were a young Danish couple, eager to engage us in conversation about the American political landscape. With George Bush Jr.’s recent controversial election victory over Al Gore fresh in their minds, they sought our perspective. Little did we know that in the weeks following our return home, the tragic events of 9/11 would unfold, forever altering the world as we knew it. The sight of the towers crumbling before our eyes would be etched into our memories, a stark reminder of the fragility of life and the unpredictability of history.
Our host family settled us onto a sleeping platform above the water, cocooned by mosquito netting. As twilight descended upon this remote corner of Thailand, we paused to reflect on the profound significance of this place – where culture, tradition, and faith intertwined.
The next morning, the sun cast a gentle glow and we observed the local fishers hauling in their catch. Bidding a reluctant farewell to the village, we departed, carrying with us memories of its breathtaking natural splendor and a profound appreciation for the power of community and the richness that comes from embracing diversity.
Monsoon: Back in Bangkok
When we arrived in Bangkok, the air was thick and heavy with the promise of impending rain. The sky was ominously dark and people scurried about – a hint at the deluge to come. The monsoon had thwarted our aspiration of traveling to Chiang Mai and now the aftermath of the storm was traveling south in our direction.
On the streets of Bangkok, we felt the first droplets of rain patter against our skin, and gradually this intensified. Seeking refuge from the storm, we ducked into a nearby cafe, where the aroma of freshly brewed coffee mingled with the earthy scent of wet pavement. Moments later, the sky opened and released a torrential downpour – a deluge unlike any we had ever seen.
From the shelter of the cafe, we observed the streets swiftly turn into rushing rivers. People around us sought refuge, darting into storefronts, huddling under awnings, and finding shelter wherever they could. Motorbikes and tuk-tuks veered off the roads, joining the collective retreat. Despite the chaos of the storm, there was a certain beauty in nature’s display of power over the urban landscape. And then, as swiftly as the rain had arrived, it began to subside.
We made our way through the flooded streets, pulling up our pants legs past our knees until we reached our cozy room for our final night in Thailand. Reflecting on our journey, we realized how profoundly it had impacted our lives, setting us on a path for the future – a future filled with light and love and many more adventures to come. We returned home and eagerly awaited the next chapter of our lives.
